Thursday, 27 October 2016

Chicago leather club welcomes trans men

The Chicago Hellfire Club has opened its doors to trans leathermen after more than a decade-long battle for inclusion that shook up the leather community throughout the U.S.

Members of the Windy City's SM club on October 8 voted 31-1, with one abstention, to allow trans leathermen full membership into one of the oldest leather clubs in the U.S., trans leathermen and supporters told the Bay Area Reporter.

The B.A.R. obtained a document sent by the club's outgoing president and emeritus member, David Katzenberg, to Hellfire members earlier this month announcing the results of the board election to end its anti-trans policy.

The new policy is inclusive of trans and intersex men living full-time as men and who hold government issued identification reflecting their male gender.

Furthermore, trans men were included in the development of the new policy, according to the announcement.

The Chicago Hellfire Club was started 45 years ago in 1971, according to the Leather Hall of Fame. In 2007, the club boasted a 400-member roster. It is unclear how many members the club has currently.

Trans men and their supporters hailed the vote as a victory. The battle went well beyond Hellfire, which is viewed as the "father" of leather clubs across the U.S., splitting the community in a contentious and divisive debate.

"It's a milestone and I'm proud of it. I'm proud of everybody who made it happen. It was certainly not just Billy and myself," said Peter Fiske, noting that there was a coalition of leaders working on the issue. He was referring to another man who requested his last name not be used.

Fiske, a 71-year-old gay leatherman, is a former chairman of the 15 Association and has been a member since 1980.

Certain clubs upheld the anti-trans policy. Others were welcoming of trans men. Slowly, as trans men and transgender issues became more visible, attitudes started to change, said Fiske.

In 2010, Tyler McCormick became the first trans man to win the prestigious International Mr. Leather title.

Clubs also evolved in understanding trans men and overturned anti-trans policies, including Hellfire. In 2011, Hellfire club members voted to allow trans leathermen to attend events and play parties as guests, trans men and their supporters told the B.A.R.

In 2015, Katzenberg told the Windy City Times , Chicago's LGBT newspaper, the issue of trans men and Hellfire was changing.

"We are an evolving group," he stressed to the newspaper, pointing out that the club allowing trans men to participate as guests at parties wasn't even allowed "as recently as three years ago."

Katzenberg declined to comment for this article.

Other leather clubs, such as the Discipline Corps in Dallas, also declined to comment, citing that they are private clubs and have strict policies regarding commenting about club business to the media.

San Francisco's 15 Association applauded Hellfire's decision. The progressive leather club has allowed trans men full membership since 2002, said Fiske.

"Myself and the rest of the 15 Association club members are absolutely thrilled by the Chicago Hellfire Club's decision a few weeks ago to allow trans men to attend events and become members of the club," said Eric See, 44, a gay leatherman who is chairman of the 15 Association.

See pointed out that the Hellfire Club and other leather clubs' policies, and a misunderstanding between gay men and trans men, led to a deep division within the two communities.

"Now that they have changed their policy, our club, and I imagine others, will work to repair the bridges between us," said See, who has been a member of the 15 Association since 2008.

Wednesday, 26 October 2016


That’s exactly what the first 100 people through the door will receive at the Nov. 5 grand opening celebration of the new Famous Footwear in Mountain Iron.

The store, located in the Mountain Iron Retail Center at 8576 Rock Ridge Drive, opens today.

The leading footwear retailer will give away pairs of shoes to the first 100 guests 18 and older at the upcoming event from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. A valid ID will be required.

Shoppers are also invited to stroll on over during the grand opening to register for drawings for shoes from 1 to 5 p.m. The day will include offers for future visits with purchase and a disc jockey.

“Our decision to open a new store in Mountain Iron was based on a recognized consumer need, and we look forward to delivering a great footwear shopping destination,” said Famous Footwear President Rick Ausick.

The retailer offers merchandise for women, men and children, making it a one-stop-shop for the entire family. Famous Footwear has more than 1,200 stores nationwide.

The chain offers more than 100 nationally recognized brands through its stores and website, including Nike, Vans, Converse, Sperry, Skechers, Adidas, Naturalizer, Steve Madden, Madden Girl, Franco Sarto, New Balance, Roxy, Circus by Sam Edelman and Carlos by Carlos Santana. Famous Footwear is also a national partner of the March of Dimes.

The free footwear at the Mountain Iron location will extend beyond the grand opening. Free Shoe Saturdays will be held each week following the event until Dec. 24 — with hourly shoe-giveaway drawings from 1 to 5 p.m.

“We strive to deliver great brands and styles for families who are looking for brand names at affordable prices,” Ausick said. “Our in-store experience will prove you don’t have to compromise style or amazing customer service when shopping for great values.”

Tuesday, 25 October 2016

A future to get excited about - Leather Naturally's Mike Redwood

For those of us who were at APLF and heard University of Northampton vice-chancellor Nick Petford's major statement on the move to the new campus, the excitement of the potential for leather in Northampton, UK, has been growing.
While it is easy to get depressed by the past 50 years of relentless industry decline in Northampton through the 20th century, the 21st century has been much better, and with this announcement it looks to be improving further. The Northampton footwear industry has stabilised and is expanding again, and has even being written about in the Financial Times.
Leathergoods businesses like Tusting are making a big mark on the world and our local tannery appears to be busy. In the university, leather education has battled through the tough changing terrain of UK higher education and emerged much stronger.
With the great help of our friends and supporters from around the world − which include many tanners, chemical companies and brands, along with magnificent support from the Leathersellers Company − the tannery, laboratories and teaching rooms have been transformed, the courses have been modularised and updated, and the research has been further revitalised with much greater industrial links.
Talking of links, the silos in the university also appear to be breaking down, and cooperation with fashion, waste management, business and a host of other departments that routinely overlap with leather is increasing all the time. Allied to the new short courses and a very dynamic teaching team, a visit to the ICLT nearly always produces positive surprises.
One vision

The vision for the vice-chancellor is that a new international centre for leather excellence will be created at Waterside campus (this is probably not what it will be called, but it is good for the moment). It will combine the Teaching Tannery, the Leather Conservation Centre (which is next door on Park campus) and the Museum of Leather Craft (whose world beating collection has been too nomadic) into one building. This concept will combine modern technology with heritage and design. Just a few metres away from this building will be a multistorey curative hub in which leather research and laboratories will link with the arts, fashion, design and other scientific areas.
For the leather industry this is pioneering work. Celebrating the importance of leather in society, technology and design, and using that to unite with modern innovation, future manufacturing methods and fashion all on one site in a town that has been deeply involved in leather for 1,000 years, is something that would have been unimaginable just ten years ago.
It is going to require determination to make it work. The University of Northampton does not have all the funding for it yet and the museum will need some bridging finance to get through the few years until the campus is built. Right now, plans and numbers are being calculated and more details should be available by the end of the summer. However, this is undoubtedly a future to get excited about.

Monday, 24 October 2016

Are high-tech sports shoes worth the expense

Consumers in sporting goods stores today are faced with seemingly countless choices of footwear. But are any of those innovations really helping you run longer or jump higher? And are those expensive sneakers any better?

At the Portland, Oregon, headquarters of sportswear maker Adidas, footwear developers are using motion capture technology to design their latest shoes.

It’s called ARAMIS -- technology that NASA has used to analyze stresses on the outer hulls of space shuttles. Here, they look at how materials stretch on the foot while it’s in motion.

“We are using it to map the body from head to toe,” Adidas Global Category Director Andy Barr told correspondent Anna Werner. “We’ve used it in the latest running products to show the way that the skin stretches and moved. By knowing more about the body, you can make better products.”

They’ve used it while developing shoe lines like the Ultra Boost and Alpha Bounce, with new materials in the soles that the company claims give wearers an extra “boost” when running or walking.

They’re ideas Adidas hopes will give it an edge in the competitive athletic shoe sector -- a market worth an estimated $99.5 billion last year.  Manufacturers tout their latest innovations, with prices to match; some shoes sell for upwards of $300.

But are they worth it?

University of Nevada biomechanics professor John Mercer, who studies athletic shoes, said, “The way your shoe performs is probably not related to the price of the shoe.”

“So if I spend $150, that shoe may not be any better than a $50 shoe?” asked Werner.

“Well, it depends. The problem with the shoe industry is that everyone needs a little different shoe.”

At Mercer’s lab in Las Vegas, he’s analyzed dozens of shoe brands and styles -- everything from the original Nikes, to unusual underwater running shoes with gills.

His latest study examines new, ultra-cushioned shoes called Hoka One One.  Did they reduce impact for runners? Mercer found it depended on the person wearing them, which (he says) is what he’s generally found for athletic shoes on the whole.

“If we take one pair of shoes and put it on 10 different people, everyone could run a little bit differently in those shoes,” said Mercer.

“So it might work for one person, that shoe, and wouldn’t work for somebody else?” Werner asked.

“That’s right.”

Some shoe companies have gotten into trouble by making generalized claims. The Federal Trade Commission sued shoe companies Reebok and Skechers over their Easy Tone and Shape Up shoe lines. The government found advertising claims that the rounded shoe could help firm your backside and promote weight loss to be false and unsubstantiated.
Don’t be brand loyal and don’t be model loyal,” he told Werner. “You’ve got to be open to different types of shoes to figure out what is going to work for you.”

He recommends taking shoes for a test run -- and if you’re a serious athlete, maybe have an expert analyze your running style.

Andy Barr at Adidas hints there are changes coming in the field. “I think the future is going to be a more personalized experience, trying to personalize product to your specific running style,” he said.

And how do you do that?  “Well, that’s under wraps for the moment,” Barr smiled.

Hoka had no comment on Mercer’s study, but as we said, research suggests the best shoe for you is going to be an individual choice.

But Mercer does say, if you’re among the 90 percent of people who strikes the pavement with their heel first, he recommends a shoe with more cushion and support in the heel. If you tend to run on the front of your feet (“forefront strikers”), he says you should look for a flatter sole.

Saturday, 22 October 2016

Reebok Liquid Speed shoes use 3D drawing for a better fit

We've seen a number of limited release shoes built using 3D printing, but now Reebok is coming in with its own attempt to rethink the traditional molding process. Reebok's Liquid Factory draws the frame of these shoes in three dimensions, using a special "high rebound" liquid created by BASF. According to Head of Future Bill McInnis, this helps "create the first ever energy-return outsole, which performs dramatically better than a typical rubber outsole." Also, the Liquid Speed's winged frame wraps up and over the shoe, making for a tighter fit in all directions.
The process used to make the shoes is proprietary, designed in a collaboration between Reebok BASF and Rampf Group in Michigan, while final assembly of the shoes took place in Massachusetts. The shoe company says it's opening a Liquid Factory manufacturing lab in early 2017.

While these $189 shoes are available only as a 300 pair limited run on and, it sounds like more are on the way, and soon, since as McInnis put it, "One of the most exciting things about Liquid Factory is the speed. We can create and customize the design of shoes in real time, because we're not using molds - we're simply programming a machine."

Friday, 21 October 2016

Can Pricey Shoes Boost a Man’s Ego

IT’S BEEN AWHILE, but I still recall certain agonizing aspects of my first big job interview. Barely in my 20s, I was living in Sydney, Australia, and going for an editor position at a publishing company that specialized in luxury fashion magazines. I was a working-class kid with big ideas and an expanding bank account, thanks to the proceeds from a boy band I’d fronted (long story), and I’d made it to the last round. It was time to meet the owner, an intimidatingly suave Italian who was, by all accounts, a walking sandwich board for Milan √©lan.

My outfit from that day remains a blur, but I vividly remember that as I was strategizing my look, it dawned on me that the reasonably handsome pair of oxfords I planned to wear—my only real special-occasion shoes—just weren’t going to cut it.

The Paul Simon song “Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes” was big then, and perhaps the lyric about the poor boy who splashes on after-shave “to compensate for his ordinary shoes” had insinuated itself into my consciousness. To be clear, it’s not like I grew up with a “shoe fund” like the cash-strapped family on “The Waltons.” My parents were hardworking first-generation immigrants who made sure we never went without anything—and to my thinking I was always an aristocrat of the mind. But I also knew that not too many kids like me ended up with great jobs in the media. Before you could say “class complex,” I high-tailed it to the most august shoe store in town to drop a small fortune on a pair of brown lace-up cordovan derbies from Crockett & Jones.

I hastily wore the austere, leather-soled beauties straight out of the shop, and so began my decades-long love affair with—how else to put it?—a better class of shoe.When it comes to masculine connoisseurship, some guys obsess over cars and cigars, others are into mechanical watches, but fine shoes are my compulsion. Don’t get me wrong: I love sneakers as much as the next guy, and I’ve been known to splurge on ridiculously trendy footwear (I call these “high-earning hairdresser shoes”). But for the most part I’m partial to Church’s, John Lobb, Berluti, Ferragamo and Alden—establishment brands whose sober styles are the staples of international business.

For someone who works in fashion, I detest shopping and assiduously avoid clothing stores, preferring to buy online and have my shirts and suits made by New York tailor Paul Marlow. But I could spend hours at Jeffery-West and Leffot, shops on Christopher Street in Manhattan, poring over footwear from redoubtable names like Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling and Saint Crispin’s. I am fascinated by the shoes’ smell and sheen, by their provenance and supreme detailing.

Thursday, 20 October 2016

Nike’s Futuristic Shoes: All Hype

A lot of hype has been surrounding Nike Inc.’s (NKE) self-lacing shoes, including the Nike Mag and the HyperAdapt. You should first know the difference between the two.

The Nike Mag comes with an auto-lacing feature, lights and a battery. When you place your feet into the shoes, they self-lace. You can turn the lights on or off, adapt the tightness of the laces and check the battery power. The battery time is three hours with the lights on and several days with the lights off. It takes three hours to charge the battery. (For more, see: Power of the Swoosh.)

There will only be 89 pairs of Nike Mag shoes to hit the market. One has already been sold for $104,000 at a Honk Kong auction. Another auction will be held on November 12 in New York City. One pair will also be raffled off. The Nike Mags are based on a scene from "Back to the Future II," and the purpose of the shoe is to help raise awareness for Parkinson’s disease. All proceeds will go to the Michael J. Fox foundation. Therefore, the Nike Mags will have no impact on Nike’s top line. This is more about Nike doing the right thing.

The HyperAdapt is a different story. These are also self-lacing shoes that are based on “electro-adapt reactive lacing” technology. That is otherwise known as E.A.R.L, and you will see “E.A.R.L” on the tongues of the shoes. A sensor in the heel will activate the lacing technology. You can adjust the tightness with buttons on the sides of the shoes. The battery life is two weeks. The HyperAdapt will be for sale to the public on November 28, but only at select retailers, and you must make an appointment.

Nike chief executive officer, Mark Parker, said that the HyperAdapt “marks a new era of sports—the era of personalized performance."

The HyperAdapt shoes going on sale November 28 are actually the HyperAdapt 1.0, which means this is only the beginning. It appears as though Nike wants this to be a limited release in order to drive excitement and demand. This has the potential to pay off more with the second version.

Tuesday, 18 October 2016

Israeli fashionista's fantasy footwear finds famous fans

Israeli designer Kobi Levi's psychedelic shoes resemble everything from banana skins to sex acts, flamingos and stretching cats -- and they are all the rage among well-heeled stars like Lady Gaga.

Working from a modest studio at his apartment in Israel's commercial capital Tel Aviv, 41-year-old Levi uses a vintage sewing machine and an old leather press to turn his designs from fantasies into shoes.

One of his works is a stylish black-and-white sneaker with an 11-centimeter (four-inch) pink dripping heel is so realistic it could be mistaken for real gum, caught the imagination of actress Whoopi Goldberg, who wore them when she appeared with US President Barack Obama on talk show "The View" in 2012.

American singer Fergie wore a pair of the same shoes in the video for her song "M.I.L.F. $".

The bulk of Levi's orders come through his website but one, in 2011, changed the course of his career -- propelling his shoes onto the global pop scene.

"I got an email from a fashion design studio that deals with Lady Gaga. They wanted a pair of shoes for a video," he says. Gaga wore the shoes in the video for her 2011 hit single "Born This Way".

Levi's designs are made to measure in very limited batches -- as few as 20 pairs. They occupy, he says, the crossroads between "design, art and fashion."

It takes several months to create a new model, and several weeks to reproduce each one. Once he receives around 20 orders, he moves on to another project.

The effort has paid off, winning Levi high-profile fans.

Swedish stylist B. Akerlund, who designs for the likes of Beyonce and Kim Kardashian, has put 13 of the Israeli's designs in her showroom.

Vogue Italia described Levi as "a genius, unusual, true creative talent, the captor of surrounding reality, of unpredictable objects, of animal appearances".

"Everything starts with a fantasy, then it becomes a challenge," he says.

Levi stressed his creations -- which sell for between $800 and $3,000 -- are designed to be worn, not simply for display.

Monday, 17 October 2016

Nike Mag: Raffle opens to allow fans to win self-lacing shoes from Back To The Future

Nike is giving people the chance to win a pair of the self-lacing Nike Mag shoes from Back To The Future.

But there'll only be one of the shoes on offer, so whoever gets them is going to have to be lucky.

Unlike in the US and Canada, where anyone in those countries could enter online, the UK raffle can only be entered at Nike Town in London. And it will only be open on 15 and 16 October.
During that time, people will also be able to have a look at the shoes.
People who want to enter the draw pay £10 to do so. All of the proceeds from those entries will go to the Michael J Fox Foundation, and eventually towards working for a cure for Parkinson's.

The draw follows auctions in Hong Kong and London. A pair of the self-lacing shoes was sold at each.

If you miss out, there's one last pair of shoes being raffled in New York, at the Michael J Fox Foundation's benefit gala on 12 November. But given that they've gone for tens of thousands so far – and that the New York auction is likely to be the most well-attended – they're likely to go for a huge sum of money.

In all, 89 pairs of the shoes are being sold. Almost all of them were made available through the US and Canadian raffles.
All entrants to the raffles will find out on 17 October whether they've won a pair.

Nike plans to use the technology from the Mag shoes in other models in the future, though they won't look like thoes from Back To The Future

Friday, 14 October 2016

Indian Terrain steps into footwear

Indian Terrain, the maker of the eponymous brand of men’s clothing has launched a footwear range to complement its smart casual range of apparel. This will add to its portfolio of clothing, belts, wallets, knitwear, denims and jackets that the brand has on offer today.

Venky Rajgopal, Chairman, Indian Terrain Fashions Ltd, says the footwear will complement its style of sportswear (in American brand parlance, smart casuals in India) that has put the brand among the top-selling in department stores such as Lifestyle and Central.

Indian Terrain steps into footwear
“The range has been carefully designed to match our styles. We will launch in our top 30 stores with 10 styles, each in three to four colours,” said Rajgopal. Each store will have high resolution tablets of the shoe range, so if a customer wants a particular model in a different colour, it can be despatched from the warehouse. Priced in the band ₹2,999 – ₹5,999, the brand has invested ₹8 crore in design and inventory of footwear.

Indian Terrain sees a ₹100 crore opportunity in footwear in the next few years. Its boys range too is growing at a smart tick. Launched last year, it registered sales of ₹4 crore in the last FY and expects to finish this year at ₹20 crore.

Indian Terrain is sold at over 1,500 counters in the country, 120 of them exclusive stores, 180 department stores and the rest multi-brand outlets. The brand has seen 16 per cent same-store growth in chains such as Lifestyle and Central and has emerged as the top-selling brand in these counters, besting other formal wear and smart casual brands.

Brand identity
“It’s a litmus test of how our brand is doing as it’s competing with so many brands under one roof and a customer is seeing all of the other brands and buying the proposition that we have for Indian Terrain,” said Rajgopal.

Jacob John, Dy CEO, Lifestyle, says the brand has a unique positioning, right assortment and is rightly priced for the young consumer. All this has seen it do well at its counters.

Rajgopal sees the robust brand growth coming from the subtle work that Indian Terrain has been doing around its brand identity as well its ad campaign featuring actor Randeep Hooda. Italian designer Mateo Zara, who advises Indian Terrain on design, helped the brand focus on identity and the emotional connect a brand needs to have with its origins.
We started building the story and our distinct identity a year-and-a-half ago. That the product is global but was born in Madras, is our story. Our footwear too talks about old Madras leatherwear, the oldest patented leather making process; our denims have a tag which says Old Madras Denim Company. Slowly, in a subtle and stylish manner, this has become an anthem across the company.”

Last year, Indian Terrain withdrew its brand from e.comm as it found the rampant discounting impacting the brand and store sales. Now, it operates on a marketplace model selling only through Amazon and Myntra where products are shipped from its warehouses on a negotiated discount. Online sales in FY 16 were at 4 per cent.

The brand finished FY 16 on gross sales of ₹500 crore and expects to grow 20 per cent in FY 17. The ₹2 scrip was quoting at ₹144 on Oct 13 on the BSE.

“We’re proud that in the past decade we are perhaps the only single brand that has emerged out of South India which was born, grown and became national out of Chennai,” said Rajgopal.

Tuesday, 11 October 2016

Leather industry demands fair treatment

KARACHI: Leather industry on Monday urged the government to treat it on par with textile and other export-oriented sectors in order to help the exporters reverse the exports’ decline.

Fawad Ijaz Khan, patron-in-chief of Pakistan Leather Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association said the federal government has planned multibillion rupees incentive package for the textile sector.

Khan, in a statement, urged the government to include the leather industry into the proposed package.

He said exports of leather garments fell 12.35 percent to $320 million during the last fiscal year of 2015/16.

“This downward trend is also continuing during the current financial year as exports were down 8.5 percent during July-August 2016/17 as compared to July-August 2015/16,” he added.

The industry leader said the main reason of exports decline is the high cost of production in Pakistan and overvaluation of rupee against foreign currencies.

“The exports are badly hit especially in the UK where the value of pound fell around 25 percent during the last few months,” he added.

He said the Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif, during a meeting last month, assured the exporters of incentive package within a week, “but still there is no announcement.”

He said the Prime Minister was told about the declining exports of leather industry during the meeting.

Khan said four percent incremental rebate on leather goods exports, announced in the trade policy (2016/18), is of no use as, “presently exports are down for most of the exporters and this incentive is only payable if exports cross 10 percent over the previous year.”

He said the proposed eight percent rebate to be announced for the textile garments’ exporters should also be given on exports of leather garments and goods. Likewise, the proposed reduction of four percent in customs/regulatory duty to zero on cotton import should also be available on imports of all types of leathers.

“Exports of leather garments and goods are heavily dependent on the import of raw, split and wet blue leathers from New Zealand, Iran, Saudi Arabia, UK etc.,” he added.

Khan said no one from the ministry of commerce and the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) is involved in the formulation of this proposed incentive package.  “The minister of commerce and CEO TDAP should be consulted before the finalisation of Incentive package,” he added.

Monday, 10 October 2016

Practical factory sustainability in the footwear industry

The environmental impact of the footwear industry has raised much attention in recent years and more sustainable production is urgently required. As one of the most important parts of the footwear value chain, manufacturing factories need to learn how to achieve sustainability. In this article, one such sustainability implementation tool for footwear factories created by SGS is introduced by Jane Jiang, Mike Song and Dr Andrew Hudson.
The footwear industry, being very labour-intensive, cannot just promote local economy development but must also provide considerable employment opportunities. However, due to the use of many hazardous chemicals, the traditional footwear industry has a significantly adverse influence on the environment and employees.
As one of the hot topics in 2014 in China, the pollution in Wuji county of Hebei province became the focus of great attention following media exposure. After about ten years of development in the leather and chemical industries in this area, around 1,000 leather factories were established. In order to save the cost of wastewater treatment, some factories discharged the wastewater directly into the groundwater without any treatment.
It has been predicted that the polluted groundwater area reached about 100km2. The discharge led to serious pollution of well water with an estimated 20% of the 1,500 villages who drank it. Despite local government investment in 2005 with the digging of a deep well, just two years later an analysis of this new well showed the presence of high levels of organic pollutants.
Besides the impact of discharge on the environment, improper use of chemicals may also result in damage to employees’ safety and health. For example, in 2015, a total of 46 workers from the company Ruifeng in the Fujian province in China were taken to hospital with nausea and bad headaches following the use of a spray during the water-resistance treatment of footwear. It was found that the footwear factory carried out this kind of water resistance treatment on an improper site without authorisation and that the operating personnel did not wear qualified respirators. At the same time, the spray used lacked important information on the label such the production date, a certificate of quality or the manufacturer.
Information relating to the environmental impact of the footwear industry has spread much faster and more efficiently than ever, with the help of emerging media such as Facebook, Weichat and a whole host of websites, as well as with more traditional media such as newspapers, magazines or TV. Each time, the exposure of the bad influence of the footwear industry on human health and the environment always creates heated online discussion. The Chinese Government has also noted these adverse influences and published related regulations to monitor and provide guidance for the situation, such as ‘Law of the People’s Republic of China on the Prevention and Control of Atmospheric Pollution’, and national mandatory standards such as GB 4287-2012 ‘Discharge standards of water pollutants for dyeing and finishing of textile industry’. Local standards are also applied, such as DB 44/817-2010 ‘Emission standard of volatile organic compounds for shoe-making industry’, to reduce the harm to the environment and employees. Today, under the increasing pressure from consumers, society and government, the footwear industry is seeking for routes to become more sustainable

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